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NOTE: Although most necessary tools for our classes are provided, students are encouraged to bring the following tools:
1-1/2" Timber Framing Chisel
Block Plane
Utility Knife
Carpenter Pencils
Safety Glasses
Hearing Protection
Recommended List of Tools For Timber Framing
The following is a list of tools that we have found to be most suitable for timber framing. You do NOT need to bring these to our classes, rather this list will help you assemble a set of tools if you decided to cut your own frame after attending one of our classes. The list includes a range of options from economical to more costly. Although it can be necessary to start with inexpensive tools, we have found that grandpa was spot on when he told me "Son, when you buy quality, you only cry once."
Layout Tools
In order to cut precise joinery, one must use precision layout tools including: Framing Square, Combination Square, Speed Square, Protractor Square, Chalk Line, "Big Al" Layout Tool, Center Rule, and Tape Measure.
Hand Saws
We use a variety of Western (Push) Saws as well as Japanese (Pull) Saws. The best value all-purpose saw is the 26" Stanley Sharptooth Smoothcut saw. It cuts well on both the crosscut and rip and has a blade long enough to cut scarfs. In the Pull Saw category, we use the affordable Ryoba by Gyokucho and really like the Silky Master 360 and the Silky Zorin 370.
Chisels and Slicks
Perhaps the most indispensable Timber Framing tool of all is the 1-1/2" chisel. Although there are many antique chisels that can be found at garage sales, getting a good one could be a challenge unless you know what to look for. We have grown fond of the chisels made by Barr Specialty Tools. They are very well made tools with socket handles, which we prefer over tang style. Aside from 1", 1-1/2", and 2" Barr chisels, we use a variety of slicks. We really enjoy the Barr Small Slick with 5" blade with 2-1/2" cutting edge. Barr also makes a Fat Boy Slick with 3-1/2" cutting edge and 7 1/2" blade which is also a great tool. Although chisels are absolutely necessary, the Slick is a timber framers best friend.
Planes
The most useful style of plane for timber framing is the Rebate (Rabbet) style where the cutting iron extends the full width of the sole of the plane. This is helpful when paring tenon shoulders. The classic planes of this style are the Stanley No. 10, Stanley No. 10-1/2, and the Stanley No. 10-1/4 (which is quite rare). These are often referred to as Coachmakers Planes. A more common and economical option is the Stanley No. 78 which is smaller and a bit of a knuckle-buster. The Veritas Bevel-Up Jack Rabbet Plane is a modern version, and although quite costly, a true joy to use. Another essential tool is a Block Plane with prices ranging from a used Stanley to the Veritas Low-Angle Block Plane. If the budget doesn't allow you to purchase a Rabbet Plane, another option is to trim tenon shoulders with a corner chisel, which is also much easier on the knuckles.
Mallets, Hammers, and Drill Bits
Although a person can easily fashion their own mallet on a wood lathe, we have found a couple of other options. One is the 30 oz Wood is Good urethane mallet. Although its weight will take some getting used to, it delivers a solid blow. We actually prefer to use a Garland No 3 Split head hammer with rawhide faces. Even heavier that the 30 oz Wood is Good Mallet, it takes some getting used to but is very handy when chiseling mortise end grain and is also perfect for driving pegs during raising. Our Drill bits of choice are the Wood Owl Ultra Smooth in a variety of diameters and lengths. Their three cutting head style is perfect for drilling peg holes (make sure you get the Ultra Smooth version).
Power Tools
Although we will use a variety of power circular saws, planers, and routers during our workshops, we are including just one essential power tool here, the Makita 4"x24" belt sander. It seems to be the ideal size sander for our work, with a belt half as wide as an 8" timber and plenty of power. It is one of the most useful tools in our shop.
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